From Bandit Brewing to Brigand Taphouse

 

by Nathan Boddy

When an anniversary can also coincide with a new location and business model, that’s worthy of raising a glass. Luckily, glasses are easy to raise at the brand new Brigand Taphouse located at 125 Hannon Lane south of Darby. And while Brigand Taphouse is new, the business will celebrate its 8th year in November. Until recently, it operated as Bandit Brewing in downtown Darby, but its new Taphouse is now upstream. Most locals would find it easiest by the simple instruction: it’s on the river bank opposite the Hannon Memorial launch site.

Owners Hilary and J.C. McDowell started the brewery with no prior intentions of being brewers in the Bitterroot Valley.

“I was doing it basically as a fun activity and to meet some friends,” says J.C., who had done recreational brewing before. But the long winters and the encouragement of friends within the community soon grew into something more. Bandit Brewing was born, but with a limited capacity of only 44. Still, the brewery became a focal point for friends and neighbors, even when it meant chipping in to the make the tasting room functional with rough hewn furniture and fixings.

“The community asked for it,” says Hilary McDowell. It had become clear that Darby needed a brewery and was willing to support the McDowells’ efforts.

The McDowells first discovered the Bitterroot Valley through their other financial enterprise, a traveling children’s entertainment company that frequents state and county fairs throughout the Rocky Mountain West.  The business keeps the McDowells busy during the summer months, but in years past had allowed them to live ‘on the anchor’ off the coast of Mexico while homeschooling their two children during the winter months.  After a stint at the Ravalli County Fair, however, J.C. had apparently found their next home. What was supposed to be a one month trial quickly turned into several, and the building they ended up purchasing as a ‘prop shop’ for their touring entertainment company ultimately became Bandit Brewing.

For those who’ve tasted the libations at Darby’s only brewery, they undoubtedly have noticed the name change from Bandit, to Brigand. The change came about after the McDowells were served with a ‘cease and desist’ order by a California winery with the ‘bandit’ name. Rather than fight the case, the McDowells chose to focus on their growing business and the service they provide to their region, and adopted the name ‘Brigand’ instead.  Luckily, the new synonym comes in time for the new location as well as a new license as a taproom, meaning the McDowells can alter their hours and serving potential beyond what is allowed for tasting rooms in Montana. Hilary McDowell also mentions with a smile that ‘Brigand’ can be defined as a mountain bandit anyway, a fitting definition for the Bitterroot Valley. “Once a bandit, always a bandit,” she says.

The new Taphouse, while open since July, will still be undergoing changes as the McDowells finish the on-site kitchen and make plans for moving the brewing operation there as well. The space itself makes wonderful use of its east facing patio and sloping grassy acreage between it and the river. The owners envision a point in time when they will also build a stage and host musical events. For now, however, they are happy that their access to the river allow folks to pop up from the water’s edge for a cool drink. And, with their new business model, that can mean everything from Brigand beer to guest taps and even wine. Hilary says they also make their own seltzers and slushies which means, “it’s like an adult Dairy Queen.”

The McDowells understand that things have been difficult for many in the valley, including rising prices and the ongoing shortage in housing. But, with the rising attention that Montana receives, the owners of Brigand are happy to see that their taphouse can serve as a community gathering place. Even within the building itself, the community-built furniture sits beneath some of the hunting trophies that patrons have harvested. Hilary says that many people jumped in to make the establishment what it is. She points out that it’s not a sports bar, and TV and wi-fi aren’t part of the draw.

“We encourage coming and being with one another,” she says, “especially coming out of Covid. This place acts as a community network, and that’s what’s so special to me.”