Burnt Fork Market offers locals a choice

by Victoria Howell

Among the usual office accumulation, there’s a sign in Jimmy Edwards’ office that says, “It’s not over when you lose – it’s over when you quit.” By all indications, Edwards, owner of Burnt Fork Market in Stevensville, is definitely not a quitter.

A grocery owner in a family of grocers that spans four generations, Edwards grew up in the business. In 1946, the Edwards family opened the Three Mile Trading Company northeast of Stevensville. Later they moved the grocery store to Main Street, next to Valley Drug in downtown Stevensville, and in the 1970s, Jimmy’s father built the current store at 601 Main. 

After college – he got a degree in business management at UM – Jimmy came back to manage the Stevensville store in the 1980s before moving to Missoula and opening Pattee Creek Market in December 1988.

In the early 2000s, Jimmy’s father sold the store and it eventually closed, with the building remaining vacant for five years. In 2016, Jimmy opened the Stevensville store as Burnt Fork Market. He ran it along with his Pattee Creek store, which he sold in 2023.

In the early 1980s, Super 1 Foods, a northwest grocery chain, opened a store near the Stevensville Junction, giving shoppers another option. 

“Stevensville’s lucky to have two quality choices,” says Edwards. “We’re the smaller grocery. We’re very friendly here, we’re definitely not corporate. You get what you get when you come in here.”

However, Burnt Fork Market has some niches where they can excel, including a wine shop, a huge beer selection, and Choice Angus beef. “We grind Black Angus Choice chuck for our burger,” says Edwards. “Other stores use tube grind.”

The real difference between the two stores, says Edwards, is that Burnt Fork Market is “independent,” not part of a corporate group. And, he says, as an independent grocer, “you have to be there.” You won’t find an owner at a corporate store. Edwards has been there most days since he opened, even through Covid – which “turned the grocery business upside down,” – through the recent inflation, and the high price of eggs due to the current avian flu outbreak.

“It’s beginning to come back around,” says Edwards with optimism. “Prices are slowly but surely dropping.”

Edwards says there is always a lot of employee turnover in the grocery business, but he’s proud of his staff, which includes his sister Jenny, son, Brandon, and some other longtime employees like Joyce in bookkeeping, Cody in produce, Billy in the meat department, Jack in janitorial. Then there’s Tom, considered by some to be “the world’s friendliest checker,” who might take a little longer to get you through the checkout line but in return he might sing a song for you while bagging your groceries, probably something that wouldn’t happen with the corporate model.

When Edwards and his employees learned about a recent negative post on social media regarding outdated products, he said they were all upset because they take pride in their work. Nobody likes criticism. That’s something that can happen at any store, and one of the main reasons it happens is the time it takes to keep up with removing expired products, especially when short-staffed.

“If someone has an issue, I don’t blow it off,” he said. “I might look like I blow it off, but I don’t. People’s groceries are important. People need to be taken care of… I shop here. I eat this stuff too.”

Regarding dairy products, “Montana is the only state that has 12-day dating on gallons of milk,” said Edwards. “All others are 18-21 days. It’s always been an issue,” for grocers, he added. “Do we run out or do we have too much and then it’s outdated.” Nothing can be returned; everything is purchased outright, and expired products eventually have to  be discarded. Nationwide, an average of about 30% of grocery store products end up being discarded. Most are perfectly safe to eat and not illegal to sell. Knowing what and how much to stock is one of the grocery store’s biggest challenges.

“We just have to learn from this,” says Edwards. “And keep trying to get better. Once you shop here we want you to be hooked. It’s like a family.” He said that they have a lot of loyalty in the community, social media critics notwithstanding. During the Covid pandemic, a customer came in and tipped every employee $500, including Edwards. “He insisted on it,” he said.

Judy and Dave Vella moved to the Bitterroot about four years ago and have become close personal friends of Edwards, who attends a weekly tango class the Vellas teach with another couple.

“I think we’re really lucky to have such a good, locally owned grocery store here,“ says Judy. “The big chain stores are readily available here and in Hamilton. But I really like to support locally owned businesses. I like that Jimmy is really open to bringing in local products and supporting local purveyors, like he’s done with the recently added bakery items. The deli is great – we love the fried chicken. His wine department is really excellent. If you want an inexpensive bottle of good wine, or a great wine for a special occasion, he’s got that too. He knows his wines. For a smaller store, he’s so accommodating. He’s really open to suggestions.” 

“And he really cares about the community and does a lot for the community and a lot of it is under the radar,” she added. “I’ve also heard that from so many other people. That’s really admirable.”

“I think I’ve forgotten more about the grocery business than I ever knew,” says Edwards with a chuckle. “I work a lot of hours. I enjoy it.” But now in his mid-60s, he’s ready to perhaps slow down a bit. He’s handed over the manager position to his son, Brandon, who seems to be settling in to the added responsibility. “Brandon understands quality and customer service.  He’s been in the business his whole life.”

“The grocery business has been good to me,” says Edwards. “It’s not a money maker. But what else am I going to do?”

Perhaps learn some new tango moves?